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5thcorps Regular Burner

Joined: 23 Jan 2009 Posts: 177 Location: Northwoods
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Posted:Mon Feb 16, 2009 6:50 am Post subject |
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Check to make sure the thermocouple did not come unplugged from the board or at least has a good connection. _________________ Bixby Maxfire 115
24" Direct vent and cap
Burgandy /Gold Trim |
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allynn
Joined: 24 Oct 2008 Posts: 12 Location: Saint Charles MI
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Posted:Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:49 am Post subject |
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Corny -I have a Bixby 110. The link you sent is for 115.On the 110 you remove the screw on center plat. You have 2 smaller plates to remove 1 on left & 1 on right you can put them in wrong. _________________ Bixby 110- Dec '05. 1-90, 1-45, 1-3', 1-90, 1-4; then Termination Cap. |
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Corny Super Burner


Joined: 02 Nov 2006 Posts: 3931 Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted:Mon Feb 16, 2009 10:28 am Post subject |
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Thanks for that, Allyn. The supporting Bixby doc says that it applies to MaxFire and UBB stoves. Either way, the drop pipe should extend beyond the plates. If they are resting incorrectly on the burn plate, then they will partially block the drop pipe. Corn will pile behind the cover plates and make a mess. I think this applies to the 100 and 110 as well. Either way, if someone posts a decent pic of the 110 plates, I'll post it on the WIKI.
Your description is jogging my memory. I think someone posted something much earlier on 110 convection plate installation. If you use the search button, you might get lucky. _________________ Bixby 115 MaxFire.
My motto: "If it doesn't fit, make it fit."
My mantra: It's in the WIKI!: http://forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/Bixby |
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jawquin Serious Burner


Joined: 03 Jun 2006 Posts: 992 Location: Quincy, IN
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Posted:Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:02 pm Post subject |
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| allynn wrote: | | Bixby 110-Does anyone have a picture of the proper position the Convection/Exhaust tube cover plates are to be installed The manual & the WIKI don't have anything. I just want to make sure I didn't mix them up reinstalling them. Thanks |
Here is a description about installing the plates on a 100 and 110 by LET I cut from a previous post.
On the 100 & 110 there are 3 plates and the outside 2 go in with the cut off corner to the top and outside & flanges out to you (smooth side in), then the center plate goes over those and is held in by a small bolt at the top. _________________ 6039
115 |
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allynn
Joined: 24 Oct 2008 Posts: 12 Location: Saint Charles MI
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allynn
Joined: 24 Oct 2008 Posts: 12 Location: Saint Charles MI
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Posted:Wed Feb 18, 2009 10:26 am Post subject |
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Update-After puttting the plates in the right way, so far the stove has run for 24 hrs. Two clinker drops & stove is still burning great. Hope the complete cleaning & proper plate replacement fixed the problem. Stove was down for 3 weeks. Should have asked for help sooner. Thanks to ALL. _________________ Bixby 110- Dec '05. 1-90, 1-45, 1-3', 1-90, 1-4; then Termination Cap. |
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Corny Super Burner


Joined: 02 Nov 2006 Posts: 3931 Location: Ontario, Canada
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JET Super Burner


Joined: 14 Jun 2006 Posts: 1709 Location: Minneapolis
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Posted:Wed Feb 18, 2009 1:48 pm Post subject |
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I am sure Quark's life is getting a little easier, it was always great when it started to warm up a bit, the calls drop off drastically  _________________ Bixby 120 - Black/Nickel <--- In the house
Bixby 100 - Black/Gold <--- In the shop |
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oldschool Regular Burner

Joined: 02 Jun 2006 Posts: 142 Location: North East OHIO
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Posted:Wed Feb 18, 2009 2:56 pm Post subject |
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Glad you got your stove going. I think it was a Bixby trick making the burn plates able to go in the wrong way  _________________ Oldschool- 110 bixby |
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LRBILLB Learner Burner
Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Posts: 23 Location: FREELAND, MD
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Posted:Thu Feb 19, 2009 6:18 pm Post subject |
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Figured I'd tack onto this existing thread:
My 115 started doing the same things. Been burning pellets since November - stove runs 24/7 - maybe gets shut off every 4-5 weeks, sometimes longer. It's been perfect until lately when it won't not support combustion.
Switched back to corn (due to cost) - first couple hundred pounds burned fine. but now...............
Fuel drops in, ignitors kick in, exhaust fan kicks on high for a initial high startup flame, but after started dies down within minutes, Flame gets smaller quickly and then goes out and burn chamber fills with smoke. Exhaust fan stays on to clear chamber.
I thought it was a bad exhaust fan (replaced it once before already), but the fan is running at startup and after - but maybe not like it should?? Could fan be bad again?
Stove is clean, connections have all been checked, exhaust path is clear also. Higher exhaust settings don't help
Any thoughts? - gettin' cold!!
LRBILLB |
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jbusa Regular Burner


Joined: 18 Jul 2006 Posts: 118 Location: Howell, Michigan
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Posted:Thu Feb 19, 2009 6:55 pm Post subject |
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LRBILLB - Whats the status of the fuel in the pot when it goes out?
allynn - Maybe use something sharp and scribe into the back side of the burn plates "L" "R" _________________ Kind Regards,
Jim
Bixby Maxfire 115 |
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Belenus Serious Burner


Joined: 10 Dec 2007 Posts: 614 Location: NE PA
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Posted:Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:52 pm Post subject |
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| LRBILLB wrote: | | …Fuel drops in, ignitors kick in, exhaust fan kicks on high for a initial high startup flame… |
The igniter air pump is responsible for the initial high velocity airflow.
| LRBILLB wrote: | | …but after started dies down within minutes, Flame gets smaller quickly and then goes out and burn chamber fills with smoke. Exhaust fan stays on to clear chamber… |
If the exhaust fan is running, and no blockage exists, how could the chamber fill with smoke? If it is running, there must be an intake air blockage or an exhaust blockage. A blockage could be in the vent system or internal to the stove.
EDIT- Wait until the igniter air pump goes off before you pull out the ash drawer. The igniter air pump will blow hot gasses downward as well as upwards
You can pull the ash drawer out during startup. If your problem goes away, you have an intake air problem. To check exhaust function, turn off the stove but do not unplug it. Open the glass door and remove the vent cap. A reasonably forceful air flow should be found flowing out of the center pipe.
| LRBILLB wrote: | | …I thought it was a bad exhaust fan (replaced it once before already), but the fan is running at startup and after - but maybe not like it should?? Could fan be bad again… |
With Bixcheck, it takes a split second to make the determination. I’ve provided an alternative method above
Steve
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allynn
Joined: 24 Oct 2008 Posts: 12 Location: Saint Charles MI
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Posted:Sat Feb 21, 2009 9:50 am Post subject |
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I did clean behind the Heat Exchanger tubes with a coat hanger. I basically did a complete cleaning describe in the owners manual. I also replaced the upper burn plate gasket.And of course it helps to have the heat exchanger plates in right lol. Stove is running great now, non stop. _________________ Bixby 110- Dec '05. 1-90, 1-45, 1-3', 1-90, 1-4; then Termination Cap. |
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ASHDUMP Serious Burner

Joined: 08 Jan 2008 Posts: 600
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Posted:Sat Feb 21, 2009 10:33 am Post subject |
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Has the lower and upper burn pot been cleaned lately? _________________ "If you can't buy it wholesale, then steal it" - Grampa |
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LRBILLB Learner Burner
Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Posts: 23 Location: FREELAND, MD
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Posted:Sat Feb 21, 2009 3:15 pm Post subject |
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Belenus, etc - thanks
Today I took it all apart - removed exhaust/intake, etc. All paths in & out are perfectly clear and clean
There is a a pretty forceful CFM exhaust output when the door is open.
Put it all back together with same result - as soon as ignitors stop, the flame dies almost right away. Exhaust fan stays on to clear burn chamber of smoke. Opening the ash drawer to allow extra air in did not help any, flame still died almost right away. Holes in bottom of burn chamber plate are all clear, so air coming through doesn't seem to be obstructed anywhere.
I was hoping it was just the exhaust fan, but that seems OK. Don't have Bixcheck, so cannot check anything that way.
Any other thoughts? Thanks |
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