My clinker pot magnum 7500

[barredrock]

my buddy and i designed from ideas on here, and he welded this for me. trying it out tonight in my 7500


















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Steven J Titus
Countryside Biomass 7500 Furnace

[barredrock]

every seem is welded, either on the inside or out. if it works we are gonna make a stainless steel version
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Steven J Titus
Countryside Biomass 7500 Furnace

[barredrock]

do i need to somehow disconnect stir rod ,,, or can i just turn stir rod to off?????????????????
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Steven J Titus
Countryside Biomass 7500 Furnace

[vander]

barredrock,

Nice job you guys did on the pot.

In some cases you just have to turn the stirrer off and the stove/furnace will operate. Other stove/furnaces you have to turn the stirrer on to get it to run. If your furnace has to have the stiirer on, then you can just remove the stirrer and turn the stirrer control knob to the #1 setting. After you see that the pot will operate ok for you (and it will when you get it tuned in) you could remove the stirrer motor connections and use a jumper to bypass the motor.

My 3500P will operate by just turning the stirrer off. I have removed the motor and chain from the stove and placed on the shelf.
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CHEERS,
VANDER

COUNTRYSIDE 3500P
W/CLINKERPOT, HEAT EXCHANGER, and ROOM AIRBOX

[barredrock]

how do i jumper it to bypass motor???? pot is working good, and i do have to have stirrer on one or it starts blinking and shuts down
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Steven J Titus
Countryside Biomass 7500 Furnace

[tallcorn]

Yeah, just remove one wire from the stirrer motor and leave the control set to 1.
Your buddy is not an amateur welder. Very nice.
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Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.

[RAA]

Would you care to share some dimensions of your pot?
Did you build it deeper that the stir pot and what size of holes did you use. I would think that you could get too many holes?
Thanks

[tallcorn]

You can build a model using balsa wood sheet. Measure the stir pot to get the dimensions for the top end. Make the depth from under the flange that sits on top of the air box to the outside bottom of the pot about 4-1/4". Check for any clearances needed on the end plates. Make the end plates full width of the top measurement of the pot width. If there is an interference, add notches to clear them. The top flange at the back of the burn pot is narrow so the pot fits between the backer board and the air box-it has to drop into the air box and fit up to the backer board. A model can check your dimensions and fit.
Holes are 3/16" diameter and 1/4" diameter. You can scale the photos to get an idea of the spacing and the quanity.
The front and rear sheets are angled so a clinker will drop out or can be pulled up. The angle also facilitates air flow. A narrow bottom of the burn pot concentrates air injection into the pot and slows clinker buidup.
When the model fits to suit, cut your parts, add holes, fixture the parts to hold them square and level and weld them together.
_________________
Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.