magnum 7500 new stove need help.

[spray]

i have been burning this unit off and on since 2004. i am awaiting a clinker pot for the 7500 praying that this will work better than my current fuel stirrer eater that i am currently using.i have had some real frustrations with this unit to say the least. i went looking for a different stove(free standing) i have seen the enviro omega,mt vernon,harman pc 45. etc... and from what i know of corn stoves i keep going back looking at the magnum 3500 to purchase.i have had bad luck i guess with all the stirrers that my magnum has eaten and other thing as well. but when i look at allot of other companies stoves they are way high tech compared to the magnum. i am a pretty simple person that lives a pretty simple life. i guess my questions to you guys here is are the other stoves with all of the high tech options better?? i want to buy a good stove but i don't want a bunch of junk or useless b.s. on it.i never thought i would consider buying another countryside product but am open for suggestions thank you in advance for your help.

[Hats2Heavy]

Order a clinker pot from sign! Before you give up on the 7500.

[spray]

thanks for the info i do have a clinker pot on its way from sign. i should have it in a few days i reckon. has this solved the problems with this stove?? are you currently using a clinker pot?? thanks again.

[chad s]

I have a 3500 countryside that I love. It came with the clinker pot and I have nothing but that pot for two seasons with no issues. I did try the stirrer pot last spring with pellets only to use up the couple of bags I had on hand. I was not impressed with the stoves operation but I think a lot of that was me. I was still running the stove as if it had the clinker pot burning corn instead of playing with the settings and getting the pellets to burn better. Any way, the 3500 I love and IMO I would wait on the clinker pot before giving up.

[Sweet Corn]

What settings do you typically run your 7500 on? Burn corn?

Other than eating stirrators what are your frustrations?

I'm on my 7th or so year with my 7500. I tried a clinker pot but I prefer the stirrator. I think I went through the same learning curve a lot of folks did but my unit runs well and I'm happy with it. It's also the best furnace with my limited chimney options. I make my own stirrators and beefed them up a bit.

SC

[spray]

i run on setting 3 always with corn. i mix about 25-40% wood pellets with 14%m.c. corn right now. i used to use oyster shells but replaced with wood pellets. what i do is run for 12 hours(if i am lucky and it stays lit that long) remove firepot and stirrer dump clinker balls and hot coals and relight with pellets this is the only way this stove will keep burning the stirrer which i have tried i think all types of manufactured stirrers that aes and dealers have put out with no luck.the cast stirer that i was sold from aes was even worse. i have never been able to run their half inch of coals in the firepot with my stove it simply will not work in my unit. i have to maintain more like 1 inch of coals or it will not keep burning i have made lots of adjustment on this stove over the past 6 years and i have not been impressed to say the least. i can accept buying a couple of stirrers a year and chalk it up as maintenance no problem. i hope that this clinker pot works or me and the magnum will soon be parted.

[tallcorn]

I've been using a clinker pot going on 2 years now after using a stirrer pot for over 5 years. I didn't have much of a problem with burning up stirrers. I was using the 2nd stirrer when I started using the clinker pot. What burns up stirrers is exactly that, they oxidize or burn up. The hotter the fuel is burned with more, faster air the quicker the stirrer is consumed. By accident or on purpose I usually run the burn pot on less draft air. I seemed to get less clinker build-up and longer stirrer life.
But the clinker pot eliminates the stirrer and the clinker problem on the stirrer. Of coarse there is the clinker itself now to deal with but that is easy to take care of. I just pull the clinker out with the "clinker hanger" or pull the pot out of the stove and dump the clinker in the ash pan.
I burn either corn or wood pellets or both, whatever, I can burn them both about the same with the only difference being the "clinker". The 100% wood clinker usually works better to just dump the pot while the 100% corn clinker can be removed as one solid clinker on the hanger.
My burn pot can burn 2 days on #2 before removing the clinker, sometimes longer. The burn pot could probably go at least 24 hours on #3. Corn burns on #3 about as hot as I want to run the stove.
P.S. I forgot to mention you won't have to empty the ash pan every couple of days and the exhaust innards stay cleaner. You can maybe go several weeks or every month between dumping the ash pan. It may depend on how much weight you want to carry out. Clinkers are heavier than ashes.
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Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.

[rdaly]

Spray, where did you get the impression to run with 1/2 inch of coals. The pot should be 1/2 to 3/4 full of coals for a proper burn. This will make the stirrer last longer and give you more heat. Tallcorn is right on the oxidizing of the stirrer and he taught me to get more heat from less draft. I didn't really believe it until I put a meat thermometer in the duct and measured the difference.

I found the ideal draft position for me on settings 1-3 is fully closed (the stop still leaves an air gap on the butterfly). I never burn 100% corn with the stirrer because of fly ash and clinker. With 50% wood pellets I can go several days without shutting down. Simply turn off the stirrer and scoop out the larger clinker balls with the stove tool and turn it back on.

With too much draft you're burning the fuel faster than it's feeding and that's why it's going out. If you have too little draft and the pot goes over 3/4 full it will flood. That can take hours of checking it, especially with the clinker pot, but in the end you'll find the ideal draft setting. The only thing that will alter this is if the exhaust starts to plug, and then you'll know it's time to clean the furnace.

[spray]

thanks for the info guys. i was told by aes and my dealer that i was consuming stirrers due to too high of coal level in firepot i would also think that a higher coal level would help but i ate a few trying this as well. i understand less draft will give more heat from unit and less up the flew by reducing velocity of air through stove. i run the dampner closed on the intake and i have the exhaust restrictor plate full forward. idid read on here where someone said they could hold their hand on the flue pipe 3 ft up from unit. i can not due that it is not hot enough to burn me by touching it but i would not be able to hold my hand on it.i have got all of they air restricted on both ends that i can and have had for years. i have read on here of putting a 4 inch pipe instead of 3 inch on the intake. i may try this .my air intake only runs about 8 ft horizontal out the wall and about a 6 ft drop. i can notice a change in flame by adjusting dampner this is why i never messed with intake air pipe.on setting 3 i am getting around 120-128 deg. plenum temps about six inches up from heat exchangers on stove. does this seem correct??thanks for any help.

[rdaly]

The exhaust plate should only be used if you cannot obtain ideal draft with the draft control. My exhaust is the same as yours, where I can touch it but not hold on to it very long. I don't think you need to change your intake diameter. 128 degrees on setting 3 seems ok. Duct temp. is going to vary depending on installation, especially static pressure, which according to AES appears to be a critical factor for optimum heat and prolonging life of the furnace. I have no idea how to measure it without hiring an hvac professional.

[spray]

i have been using the draft plate in a effort to restrict the amount of air through my stove. in other words the drier the fuel the less air i need and the more heat stays in the stove and less goes out the flue. i have played with this unit for some time and i have found the draft plate to make very little difference on the stoves performance. thanks for the info

[RobC]

The output temps will also depend on the intake air temp. During normal high 20's to low 30's winter temps here I get about 140-150 at the same point as yours on setting 3. When it's cold (single digits) around 120 is about average.

You're right about the fuel level. The owners manual specifically states the fuel bed should be low; 1/4 to 1/2 inch in the bottom of the pot. When mine gets to 1/2 to 3/4 full like rdaly is suggesting, it doesn't get enough air and will soon overflow.

I'm not convinced on the claim that acidic burn is what eats stirrers on the 7500. I now have my static pressure right and ran the stirrer for about 2 weeks recently (using pellets) and the stirrer was still getting smaller and smaller by the day. My thoughts are that the 7500 just burns too hot for the stirrers. All of my other signs of acidic burn are now gone that the static pressure is right but it still eats the stirrers. I now use one of sign2024's clinker pots and I couldn't be happier. I'm done with the stirrers. I think you'll be happy with the clinker pot.

[tallcorn]

I agree with RobC about the 7500 just runs hotter and burns the stirrers up faster. They burn more fuel with the same basic platform as the 3500 and need more air for combustion to keep from having burn pot overflow.
From the posts of other high volume stirrer type burners, quick erosion of the stirrers is a common problem.
I did some testing of intake temperature to heat output temperature and I didn't see much effect of colder intake air on output air temperature.
As for an acidic burn I think that would be a burn that produces a high moisture or "wet" exhaust.
_________________
Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.

[spray]

thanks robc for the info i was always under the impression that acidic burn comes from corn right?? than why does any and all types of wood pellets burn our stir rods out hmmmm?? i think you hit the nail on the head the 7500 has a design flaw in the factory air\ firepot set up it is quite simple. the biggest problem that i have with aes is there was never to my knowledge a fix for this problem with the 7500 i mean i have got every type of different alloy steel and cast and so on and so on of fuel stirres. this never fixed the problem. then to not get a clinker pot certified for a whopping 5k dollars which is minimal to how many magnum 7500 furnace's that they made and sold. when guys can weld one of these clinker pots up in their garage and it works as well as what i am hearing. aes solution discontinue 7500 how about a real fix we all spent our hard earned money on these stoves .when i got mine i was told that this was the greatest thing ever. it just won the vespa award.i don't judge a company on how many problems that i might have with their product but how they handle the problems when we have them. aes solution profit from selling us more stirres etc.. then discontinue. that is very poor.
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magnum 7500 since 04

[RobC]

I hear ya. I've been through 5 stirrers so far. On the 6th and I have a 7th on standby where it will more than likely permanently remain. This is my 3rd year burning. I only use it for pellets which I only have maybe 25 bags left of then I'm done buying those except for using to start the fire. As far as no fix for it from AES, I really don't think there could be one and that is probably why it is being discontinued. I couldn't care less if AES certifies a clinker pot for the 7500. I feel they got enough $ from customers for stirrers over the years. If I didn't end up with one of sign2024's clinker pots this year it probably would have been my last year with the 7500. It's a whole different beast now.