Auburn draft indution motor
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ohfarmer



Joined: 29 Dec 2006
Posts: 17
Location: Central Ohio

PostPosted:Fri Dec 29, 2006 11:20 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by ohfarmer

Hey everyone, I'm a new member but been reading the posts for some time now. I've seen some very good discussions and now it's time for me to take a stab at it.
my stove is an o4 model and i'm now having my first problem with it. Dec 21st the draft induction motor quit working. I took it off and it turned over kinda hard, since this is my only heat source i got on the phone to the dealer righ away, he was out so i left a message for him to call me. I figured he wouldn't have one so i called to grainger with the numbers off the motor and they couldn't find a match. while waiting on the dealer to call i decided to tear my motor apart, i cleaned up the shaft and bushing, put some oil on it for electric motors and put it back together. it turned ok so i put it together and it worked fine which was a good thing because the dealer never called back. Early tues morning Dec 26 it did the same thing again, i called the dealer, this time i got him and he said he sold the last one a couple days ago and he'll have more thursday dec 28. I tore it apart again and looked closer this time, i found the packing material around the bushing was almost completely gone, i cleaned everything and oiled it again and this time put a wick material in around the bushing to hopefully keep the shaft oiled, so far it's working, today is the 4th day since cleaning and oiling i'm hoping it will last much longer.
since all this happened i found out a new motor will be at least $165 hopefully by adding some wick material around the bushing it will run a long time yet but if not then i'd like to know why not. is the bushing bad? it is oil impregnated, do they eventually go bad or lose their lubricating ability? it seems to me their ought to be a way to make this motor run another 2-3 years since it's perfectly ok except for the shaft wanting to seize. Appearently the only way to get a new motor is to go through a st croix dealer, all place i've tried can't reference the number. before this i had no complaints with the stove now i realize my dealer doesn't have much of a parts stock and i would have been left out in the cold for close to a week had i not been able to get the motor to work. does anyone on here have a dealer with a good inventory of parts?
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jakehill
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Joined: 07 Dec 2006
Posts: 47
Location: Brookings, Sd

PostPosted:Fri Dec 29, 2006 12:43 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by jakehill

Had similar problems this year with a couple of stoves, they would not turn over on the lower voltages on start up. After talking with an old friend who rebuilds electric motors alternators etc, he suggested to spray the motor out with brake cleaner. Cleaned them right up, spent $3.00 on can of brake cleaner and have plenty to spare.

Jake
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xracer
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Joined: 27 May 2006
Posts: 1529
Location: Michigan

PostPosted:Fri Dec 29, 2006 8:00 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by xracer

$165 for those motors is highway robbery.

If Fasco is like other suppliers, they assign St. Croix a proprietory P/N (or Customer #), but in reality the parts are usually nothing special, you just have to figure out which motor from their catalog is the equvalent. I'd just take the motor to a local electrical supplier, or Grainger, McMaster etc. and match it up. If you call Fasco, they won't give you any info.
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tallcorn
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Joined: 02 Jun 2006
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PostPosted:Fri Dec 29, 2006 9:28 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by tallcorn

Stove manufacturer's order custom built motors from places like Fasco who can make any flavor of motor. Fasco only sells that motor to the stove manufacturer and places like Grainger can't get them. So you are stuck with dealing with a dealer. It's like some car parts. Many can be found at any parts place and some are only available from a dealer. They are usually some odd-ball thing that is very expensive. Sad
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Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.

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jakehill
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Joined: 07 Dec 2006
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Location: Brookings, Sd

PostPosted:Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:08 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by jakehill

Combustion fan motor list price is $125.00 not $165.00 the gasket is $12.00 not always necessary but recommended. If you install it yourself the dealer should
give you a break after the warranty has expired.

Jake
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xracer
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PostPosted:Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:53 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by xracer

jakehill wrote:
Combustion fan motor list price is $125.00 not $165.00 the gasket is $12.00 not always necessary but recommended. If you install it yourself the dealer should
give you a break after the warranty has expired.

Jake


That's still a ripoff. The motor shouldn't be over $50. The gasket is worth what, $2?

The next time I have the motor out, I'm going to match up one. There's always a way around using "special" motors. It may be required to drill new mounting holes or some other minor thing, but in the end they are just electric motors.

A nice little racket these stove mfr's have going, almost as bad as the auto companies. Our company screwed the customers (auto companies Laughing) for years on spare parts, marking them up as much as 400% for machines that we built, convincing the customer we were the experts in making those parts. Problem was, we were farming them out to get machined. We no longer supply those parts as the customer figured it out.

On several machines we used special driveshafts with couplers. The company charges us $7,000 each. We decided to see what was so special.....nothing. The same exact item could be made in house for under $2000.
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ohfarmer



Joined: 29 Dec 2006
Posts: 17
Location: Central Ohio

PostPosted:Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:58 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by ohfarmer

Well my second repair is still holding up. It burns me up when a company makes parts proprietary. My stove is a great design and i expect things like this motor to go bad over time and when it does i also expect to get a replacement at a respectable price and in a timely manner, neither happened. i agree this is a $50 motor (even that is more than it's actually worth) and i wouldn't feel bad about paying that for it.
I also thought someone could match up this motor with a like design, Grainger took one look at it and said they couldn't do it. he sent me to another place called johnstone, they have fasco motors everywhere and they couldn't match it. i've come to the conclusion i have two options. buy from the dealer or make mine work. if my repair holds up till i shutdown the stove for the summer i'll get a new oil impregnated bushing made and have it on hand for later if needed. if it doesn't hold up i guess i'll be forced to pay the almighty company whatever they want.
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xracer
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Joined: 27 May 2006
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Location: Michigan

PostPosted:Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:34 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by xracer

Do you know what wouldn't match up? Bolt pattern or???
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ohfarmer



Joined: 29 Dec 2006
Posts: 17
Location: Central Ohio

PostPosted:Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:18 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by ohfarmer

The motor he tried to sell me was a single speed, it only had 2 wires. That brings up a good point too. the label on the motor i have doesn't have any of the good details like rpm, hp, and how many speeds it is. i assume it's 2 speed it has 3 wires or it could even be variable speed, wouldn't it have to change speed with each of the 5 temp settings? if someone on here is a dealer maybe they have that info and would share it. they have some that looks like the same mounts but without the other details i don't know if they would work or not
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LET
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Joined: 10 Oct 2006
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PostPosted:Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:11 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by LET

That motor is a variable speed, it is different for each of the 5 levels. I suppose you warranty just run out this fall. Sad
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cornstoveman
Regular Burner
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Joined: 14 Aug 2006
Posts: 181
Location: Blue Grass, Iowa

PostPosted:Sat Jan 06, 2007 11:28 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by cornstoveman

I just worked on a Greenfield today and examined the combustion motor...It does have three wires..White, Black ,Brown...but the Brown wire is hooked to NOTHING! Tells me that a 2 wire motor will work fine. Matter of fact..( maybe X can help me on this one! ) Maybe the Brown wire is for reversing the polarity to run the motor backwards?..not that it is used but it must be a motor that is used for more applications or can be mounted in a different position on another appliance? So...if we could figure out the details of this motor we could get a suitable replacement.
Cornstoveman
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tallcorn
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PostPosted:Sun Jan 07, 2007 12:56 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by tallcorn

Motor speed can be controlled electronically by the micro-processor and software.

This is a single phase AC induction motor speed control that could be miniaturized. Some of the components were added for visual effects. I tested it using a floor fan. It can slow the low speed of the fan to a quiet breeze.


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Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.

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xracer
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Joined: 27 May 2006
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PostPosted:Sun Jan 07, 2007 2:57 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by xracer

cornstoveman wrote:
I just worked on a Greenfield today and examined the combustion motor...It does have three wires..White, Black ,Brown...but the Brown wire is hooked to NOTHING! Tells me that a 2 wire motor will work fine. Matter of fact..( maybe X can help me on this one! ) Maybe the Brown wire is for reversing the polarity to run the motor backwards?..not that it is used but it must be a motor that is used for more applications or can be mounted in a different position on another appliance? So...if we could figure out the details of this motor we could get a suitable replacement.
Cornstoveman


If you look in the service manual, the combustion motor speed is controlled by voltage. That tells me it's a standard brush type motor (universal AC motor) that's basically a DC motor running on AC, similar to drills etc.. Nothing special.

RPM is 3100 @115v on mine, 1700 at the low voltage (85??). Find a motor from Grainger etc. that's 3100/3200 RPM, universal brush type AC and that should work. Just make sure the rotation is correct.

Does St. Croix sell just the motor or the complete blower assy?
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cornstoveman
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Joined: 14 Aug 2006
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PostPosted:Sun Jan 07, 2007 3:43 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by cornstoveman

My price sheet lists the combustion fan as a whole unit. Sad
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xracer
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PostPosted:Sun Jan 07, 2007 4:44 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by xracer

cornstoveman wrote:
My price sheet lists the combustion fan as a whole unit. Sad
Cornstoveman


That's fine, the motor can still be replaced by itself, and I'll bet the entire unit can be too for probably nearly half the cost of OEM, except that there's a flange welded on the end for the adaptor.

They should offer just the motor.
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