HR-01 Stir rod motor shaft broke

 
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strausz



Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 13
Location: Central ks

PostPosted:Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:39 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by strausz

Anyone know who i could call to get a replacement Gearbox for the stir rod, appears mine stove had some buildup in the burnpot and the shaft got in bind and actually broke off between the sprocket and the gearbox, so I need one right away. I have no local dealer here and need to find parts asap, overnited if I can. Any suggestions, I am in Kansas. Thanks
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tallcorn
Super Burner
Super Burner


Joined: 02 Jun 2006
Posts: 9541
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa

PostPosted:Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:56 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by tallcorn

Click on Kansas on the maps for dealer and parts locations.


http://www.countryflame.com/dealer.php

http://www.countryflame.com/parts.php
_________________
Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.

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strausz



Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 13
Location: Central ks

PostPosted:Fri Feb 29, 2008 8:32 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by strausz

I just checked the replacement stir rod motor to see why my firebox was not clunking like it had been, I see it has split itself from the output shaft again. I do not know what to do, it appears to me the shaft that runs thru the stove wall to the stir rod is binding up at times and eventually locks up and the only thing it can do is break at this weak point. We tried to remove the collar on the outside of the stove box so we could push the shaft back thru into the stove and see what the problem was, but we could not get the collar off and the shaft will not come off without removal of the collar. This stove is about to piss me off. My wife is already mad due to all the issues we have had with it, but I have no warranty so I can't really afford to just ditch a $1700 paperweight as it is a great source of heat when it works. Anybody have any further suggestions. I read a post the other nite where someone had taken this shaft out, but I cannot seem to find it. HELP!!!!!!!
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tallcorn
Super Burner
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Joined: 02 Jun 2006
Posts: 9541
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa

PostPosted:Fri Feb 29, 2008 2:17 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by tallcorn

strausz, I think your stirrer shaft is similar to the Countryside. They have a tech bulletin about how to remove and repair it. I'll see if I can find it for you. Maybe the stove had problems before you got it with the drive. The bushing and shaft can wear out and that could be the problem.
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Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.

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tallcorn
Super Burner
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Joined: 02 Jun 2006
Posts: 9541
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa

PostPosted:Fri Feb 29, 2008 2:40 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by tallcorn

Maybe these will help. Is the collar on the inside of the stove? Is the set screw in it? If the set screw is out you can lock a large vise-grip on the shaft and hold the handle to the door frame while trying to turn the collar with a pipe wrench. If you can spin the collar you should be able to work it off the shaft. Otherwise you need a Dremel type tool with a reinforced cutoff wheel and cut the collar into two halves. Been there-done that.

http://www.americanenergysystems.com/downloads/public/T-0052%20Tech%20B%20Fuel%20Stirrer,%20Shaft%20&%20Bushings.pdf

http://www.americanenergysystems.com/downloads/public/T-0028%20Tech%20B%20MF3511%20Bronze%20Bushing%20Install.pdf
_________________
Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.

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tallcorn
Super Burner
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Joined: 02 Jun 2006
Posts: 9541
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa

PostPosted:Fri Feb 29, 2008 2:48 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by tallcorn

If you can't get the collar off don't kick the dog. It's not it's fault. Rolling Eyes Cut the collar in half with a cutoff wheel. I welded this back together.




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Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.

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skilborn
Regular Burner
Regular Burner


Joined: 13 Nov 2006
Posts: 125
Location: Gilman, IA

PostPosted:Fri Feb 29, 2008 9:48 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by skilborn

Once again, this JUST happened to me. You need to remove things in this order:

1. Remove stir motor gear from stir motor
2. Remove chain
3. Remove gear from shaft thru side of stove
4. Remove collar from shaft that goes to stir rod
5. Remove stir rod, collar, and burn pot
6. Remove shaft - it comes out into the stove side.

I don't think it's necessary to remove the small collar from this shaft. Once you get it out you'll see why it's not turning - mine was all 'galled' up with several raised areas/burrs. I took the shaft to my bench grinder and cleaned off all the burrs. I then sanded it it with some finer sandpaper. I rolled up some sandpaper and put it through where the shaft was and tried to clean it out too. Put everything back together and was amazed how quiet my stir rod motor was - I guess it had been binding for quite a while. Mine got so bad I had to use a mini pipe wrench to turn it into location so I could get the set screws out.

Hope this helps - if you need more help reply to this thread or PM me and I can talk you through it.

So far this year I have broken:

1. Combustion blower (replaced)
2. Stir rod motor internal gear (replaced)
3. This shaft siezed
4. My door glass cracked top to bottom
5. My stove WILL NOT run on level 5 with the control board side door closed. The control board overheats, the stove freaks out, and shuts down. I have to leave it open about 6 inches.

I wish there was a lemon law for corn stoves...
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flyinfarmer



Joined: 22 Jan 2008
Posts: 7
Location: Traer, Ia

PostPosted:Wed Mar 05, 2008 5:40 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by flyinfarmer

I've had several probs with mine, too. I did finally (knock on wood) fix the stirring rod shaft problems. The basic design with the chain providing a cantilevered load on the shaft is poor - any design engineer knows that. I have an older stove w/o the brass bushings. But, when I bought a new shaft (that came with bushings), I rigged up a support on the outside wall of the stove so the shaft is supported at both the outside wall and where it goes through the wall into the burn area. I know, my explanation stinks, but it has worked for that past 1 1/2 yrs w/o issue. I could try to take some pics if someone wants me to send them. I see you are in Gilman, I am in Traer - you could stop up and take a look at what I have done.

Chris
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skilborn
Regular Burner
Regular Burner


Joined: 13 Nov 2006
Posts: 125
Location: Gilman, IA

PostPosted:Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:54 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by skilborn

Yea, I'd like to take a look at yours - your stove sounds similar to mine. I bought mine just after the state fair in 2005. You get yours in Tama too?
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flyinfarmer



Joined: 22 Jan 2008
Posts: 7
Location: Traer, Ia

PostPosted:Thu Mar 06, 2008 6:54 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by flyinfarmer

Nope - bought it in 2003 from some guy in Kansas that was a dealer going out of business. Turns out this 'guy' owed Country Flame a bunch of money, as he must have financed his inventory through Country Flame. As soon as the distrubutor/dealer in Strawberry Point found out where I got my stove, he will have nothing to do with me - real nice guy. The fellow in Tama, however, has been great to work with. I have gotten a few parts and some advice from him - I think he really knows the stoves. If you are looking for a road trip excuse, let me know and maybe we can work out a time. In case I don't remember to get back on this board, give me a call at xxx319xxx415xxx1516.

I have been burning the thing since Fall 2003 - 150-200 bu of corn/yr.

Chris
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drauken



Joined: 02 Nov 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Pa

PostPosted:Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:53 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by drauken

I seen you response about the variety of pieces you had to replace. i am trying to find a new exhaust blower. I can see where the Jakel INC. on the side of the motor the rest of the words are smeared. I would also like to obtain the specs on the stir rod and auger motors. Toward the end of the burning season my Harvester became a serious pain. I would like to stock up on parts and not pay a arm and a leg.
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wes
Regular Burner
Regular Burner


Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 112
Location: Middleton,MI

PostPosted:Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:02 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by wes

flyinfarmer wrote:
I've had several probs with mine, too. I did finally (knock on wood) fix the stirring rod shaft problems. The basic design with the chain providing a cantilevered load on the shaft is poor - any design engineer knows that. I have an older stove w/o the brass bushings. But, when I bought a new shaft (that came with bushings), I rigged up a support on the outside wall of the stove so the shaft is supported at both the outside wall and where it goes through the wall into the burn area. I know, my explanation stinks, but it has worked for that past 1 1/2 yrs w/o issue. I could try to take some pics if someone wants me to send them. I see you are in Gilman, I am in Traer - you could stop up and take a look at what I have done.

Chris

The 'cantilevered design' that you refer to, is made that way in order to allow the stirrer system to 'flex' and ride over any clinker balls that build up. If the system were fastened firmly in place, it would likely just ruin the stirrer motor anytime it got in a bind.
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3500P clinker pot in house. 3500P stirrer pot and baby countryside with cast iron pot in shop.


If we forget that we are one nation under GOD, we will be a nation gone under.-Ronald Reagan
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