Can't remove Harvester Firepot

 
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trudd321
Learner Burner


Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 38
Location: ND

PostPosted:Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:46 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by trudd321

My Harvester is brand new, manufactured in 2006 though. I've removed the screw on the sleeve on the stir rod but, I can't slide the sleeve either way. I'm not even sure which way I'm supposed to slide it. To the left (towards the stove wall) or to the right (towards the firepot). If anyone knows please let me know. I think there may be some rust in the sleeve from sitting for two years. Also, would it be okay to spray some rust pentrator like PB Blaster to try and loosen it up?
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tallcorn
Super Burner
Super Burner


Joined: 02 Jun 2006
Posts: 9541
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa

PostPosted:Sat Nov 22, 2008 3:06 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by tallcorn

The collar is supposed to slide toward the burn pot. Been there and done that. Embarassed You can try a rust buster, WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc. but nothing worked for me. I tried a large Vise Grip pliers locked on the shaft to the right of the collar, using the doorframe to hold it from turning. Then use large channel lock pliers or pipe wrench on the collar to try to turn it. There isn't much room to maneuver and no way to hammer on it. I couldn't budge it so I cut the collar off. I used a Dremel type motor (Craftsman with speed control) and a cutoff wheel to grind slots across the collar to split it in half. Then I welded the halves back together and bored the collar bore bigger so it had more clearance. You can buy a new collar or have a machine shop make a new one. A screw clamp would probably work for a temporary collar or even some wire wrapped over the shaft.








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Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.

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trudd321
Learner Burner


Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 38
Location: ND

PostPosted:Sat Nov 22, 2008 3:19 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by trudd321

Thanks again tallcorn. I take another stab at it and then I'll cut it off.

By the way, my auger clogging problems were caused by my pellets. Cleanfire wood pellets seem to be just too hard for my auger to handle. Greene Team pellets from lowes are softer, crumble more easily. I burned 3 bags of them without any problems. I'm now mixing the Greene Team with my Clean fire, about 50-50 mixture, and this seems to be working really well.

Thank you for all you help.

Dave
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tallcorn
Super Burner
Super Burner


Joined: 02 Jun 2006
Posts: 9541
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa

PostPosted:Sat Nov 22, 2008 3:28 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by tallcorn

trudd321 wrote:
Thanks again tallcorn. I take another stab at it and then I'll cut it off.

By the way, my auger clogging problems were caused by my pellets. Cleanfire wood pellets seem to be just too hard for my auger to handle. Greene Team pellets from lowes are softer, crumble more easily. I burned 3 bags of them without any problems. I'm now mixing the Greene Team with my Clean fire, about 50-50 mixture, and this seems to be working really well.

Thank you for all you help.

Dave


Thanks for the update on the auger and pellets. Other people are having similar problems so that's good information to know. That's a new one about the pellets being too solid. Wink
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Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.

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skilborn
Regular Burner
Regular Burner


Joined: 13 Nov 2006
Posts: 125
Location: Gilman, IA

PostPosted:Sat Nov 22, 2008 8:18 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by skilborn

I have another odd problem burning pellets (100%) in my Harvester. Over 2-3 days the burn pot fills up with 1/2 burnt ash, and the burn pot overfills. Corn or 50/50 w/ pellets is fine. I've got 170 bushels in the shed for this winter, but sometimes burn pellets in the spring. Anyone else had this problem? I have my air inlet ran outside with a 1 1/2" 'Banjo' ball valve for air control, but can't seem to find an air setting that keeps it from happening. Also, how did you end up getting your auger out without taking the top off? I've got a 2005 stove, so they may have changed something since then, although I don't think there are too many Harvesters built after 2006.
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tallcorn
Super Burner
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Joined: 02 Jun 2006
Posts: 9541
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa

PostPosted:Sat Nov 22, 2008 9:13 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by tallcorn

skilborn, I think you can remove the auger from the bottom of the auger tube from the back of the stove by loosening the screws that hold the rear plate of the tube.
If you have a build up of ash in the burn pot, clean them out. People that promote low maintenance of stirrer burn pots are dreaming. Using high draft air to keep the ash cleared is wasting heat.
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Countryside 3500P (pedestal version) used 8-9 yrs, 24/7 during days requiring heat. All original motors. Burns moldy corn, and pellets equally well. Burn it if you got it.

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trudd321
Learner Burner


Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 38
Location: ND

PostPosted:Sun Nov 23, 2008 11:49 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by trudd321

I never ended up taking the auger out so I can't help you there skilborn. Sorry. I decided to try different pellets first and it ended up solving my problem.
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trudd321
Learner Burner


Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 38
Location: ND

PostPosted:Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:45 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by trudd321

In case you're still wondering, I spoke to CF tech support. He said that you can remove the auger motor and slide the auger out.
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