*NEW*400 Hot Water unit
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Jeremy
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PostPosted:Tue Dec 16, 2008 5:40 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by Jeremy

I figured I would give you guys a chance to see the new SAR boiler first! It has been given a face lift. We think this will be the most efficent solid fuel boiler on the market. This one is the 400,000 BTU model. It has the same controls on it that our Rocket units have. Well again enjoy this bad little machine Laughing haha






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sting
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PostPosted:Tue Dec 16, 2008 5:46 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by sting

only one burn pot Jeremy???

It must be a big one!

How many gallons will be in the vessel?
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Jeremy
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PostPosted:Tue Dec 16, 2008 5:55 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by Jeremy

18x18 - 11 inches deep for the burn pot

As far as how much the unit i don't know much water it holds yet. I will find that out hopefully in the next few days.
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ShovelEd
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PostPosted:Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:30 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by ShovelEd

Wow! thats a nice looking unit Jeremy!!
I think it needs to go to stings house for some extensive field testing and to see if it interfaces with his trellis ok Laughing Cool
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sting
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PostPosted:Wed Dec 17, 2008 10:24 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by sting

I am at my nice LCD today and the pictures are much clearer

is this a single or double pass heat exchanger?

I see the pipe in the back with the probe -- assume that's something to sample exhaust temp and play with the ecm for best burn -- but what has me puzzled as to the pass sequence --- if we punch the fire tubes-- where will the soot land -- I don't see a clean out in the back?

Have you twisted some turbulators in those horizontal tubes yet for better exchange? (If single pass -- will they be longer and shorter as they are placed in the higher vessel tubes?

You have all that wonderful access to the tubes -- please consider rolling the fire tubes water tight into the vessel tube manifold vs welding them in the holes -- it will be quicker for your shop and easier to be field repairable in the future.

just random thoughts -- looks too nice to burn corn in Wink
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Jeremy
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PostPosted:Wed Dec 17, 2008 3:49 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by Jeremy

Quote:
I am at my nice LCD today and the pictures are much clearer

is this a single or double pass heat exchanger?

I see the pipe in the back with the probe -- assume that's something to sample exhaust temp and play with the ecm for best burn -- but what has me puzzled as to the pass sequence --- if we punch the fire tubes-- where will the soot land -- I don't see a clean out in the back?

Have you twisted some turbulators in those horizontal tubes yet for better exchange? (If single pass -- will they be longer and shorter as they are placed in the higher vessel tubes?

You have all that wonderful access to the tubes -- please consider rolling the fire tubes water tight into the vessel tube manifold vs welding them in the holes -- it will be quicker for your shop and easier to be field repairable in the future.

just random thoughts -- looks too nice to burn corn in



Well thanks sting I can always count on you. HAHA

This is a double fuel pass, the unit it holds 54 gal. in the unit itself.
The cleanout is on the side of the unit.

Just for info this is just starting to come out of the prototype stage. So there will be more tweaking I am sure.

As far as to nice to burn corn the great thing about this unit it has same controls that the Rockets have. Which means you can burn wood pellets, corn, cherry pits, switchgrass pellets, pretty much anything the size of a pellet and is able to be burned Very Happy
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lowcostheat
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PostPosted:Thu Jan 01, 2009 1:41 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by lowcostheat

Sting, is there a minimum recommended temp for a solid fuel boiler to run to lessen the chance of creosote formation?
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sting
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PostPosted:Thu Jan 01, 2009 4:35 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by sting

IF Jeremy doesn't mind Ill offer

Operate above 140 degrees - the accepted minimum operating temperature of a condensing type boiler

Never let the return water circulate into the bottom of the boiler if its below 110 for more than a minute. -- How the heck do we do that you ask??? If the boiler isn't picking up supply out temps and the return water is that cold, It won't be long before the supply water drops below 140 and boiler protection should launch - but if your balancing a new system and return water is this cold,,,, its time to rethink your controls -- YOUR WRECKING YOUR NEW BOILER....

Boiler protection is 1) stopping the pumping thru the boiler or 2) bypassing the boiler until the boiler supply temperature again reaches 155. If supply temperature drops again- the protection cycle simply repeats. If the boiler protection cycle repeats often - its likely that the GPM thru the boiler is above the BTU capacity of the boiler, and should be reduced by manual choking or a ODR compensating GPM variable pump and logic control as some TACO systems do!

--- but that’s another story in the naked boiler room, as I smell (in the far reaches of my quack science) the load is outmatching the boiler! Under sized boilers are not a bad thing - they run more time at peek efficiency vs. over sized boilers that idle consuming fuel needlessly - vs. a correctly sized boiler, but our size options are not always as available as the traditions fuel boilers that are offered in 20,000 BTU increments.

It’s all about control! And I fear I have overstepped my welcome -- again
Shocked


so--- That written.... Do what the boiler manufacturer says when it comes to running a specific wet energy producing thingy.
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lowcostheat
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PostPosted:Fri Jan 02, 2009 8:50 am    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by lowcostheat

Thanks, sting, I appreciate the quick answer and explanation.
I am sure it is buried in a book chapter somewhere but I like the 1 paragraph laymans version.
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Jeremy
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PostPosted:Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:17 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by Jeremy

Sting is you are more than welcome to answer any question you feel like answering on here Very Happy ........... To be honest my knowledge on the boilers is very limited the first time I ran one was accually Monday for some testing and programing of the controls...... We were keeping it a constant 180 degree water, after we tested the highs and lows corn and wood pellets. I love how quiet they are! didnt even know it was running I am use to a a fan blowing off the heat.......... I think Randy wants to heat the new SAR building with a boiler now...... or at least the showroom part of it.
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Jeremy
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PostPosted:Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:19 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by Jeremy

p.s. we have a saftey setting 120 - 140 min water temp so it is impossible to get below 120 unless you run out of fuel Very Happy which we did at one point today haha
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sting
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PostPosted:Fri Jan 02, 2009 8:02 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by sting

that's great Jeremy

you will love the comfort and economy of radiant heat from a wet system in your new building
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kan_burn
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PostPosted:Mon Jan 19, 2009 10:05 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by kan_burn

Sting, are you talking about using something like this

http://www.krais.com/index.php?main=list.php&menu=products&lid=Boiler%20Tube%20Expanders

to roll the fire tubes. They have some videos of their equipment in action.
http://www.krais.com/index.php?wid=vgal

Looks like a little investment in equipment, but looks a lot faster than welding.
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sting
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PostPosted:Tue Jan 20, 2009 12:00 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by sting

Mine is in a bit less than "pristine" condition -- but yes Smile


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kan_burn
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PostPosted:Tue Jan 20, 2009 8:14 pm    Post subject Reply with quoteFind all posts by kan_burn

Do you have to use an expander that will put a flair on it also in order to make it water tight?
Do they make a seperate tool to make the flair? Or is it more comon for the expander and flair tool to be all in one, like the one I had shown?
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