FAQs / Troubleshooting / Why is that?
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User Support Community
An excellent user forum of Bixby users is available at new iburncorn Bixby forum .
As of December 2010, this forum succeeds an older forum that is still available with over 20,000 search-able archived posts at old iburncorn Bixby forum
There is almost no technical problem that members of this forum have not collectively resolved. By searching and participating in these forums, you tap into the knowledge and support of both new and experienced users in addition to factory reps (on the old forum, look for the names of JET, Quark, and Tomorokoshi). Remember to linger on the new forum and contribute some thoughts, experiences, and/or wisdom of your own. The statistics of iburncorn will show that this is amongst the most dynamic (if not the most dynamic) of all brand-specific multi-fuel stove forums.
The iburncorn family of corn-burning forums are very kindly hosted by a single corn-burning user from his home at his expense. A kind donation will help support his demanding and costly obsession. You can donate directly from the iburncorn home page at http://www.iburncorn.com/home .
The best of the iburncorn forum: Over 30 pages compiled by Quark, packed with troubleshooting and related information about the Bixby stove. This is a must-see. http://www.scribd.com/doc/4601998/FAQ
Bixby Product Statement and other Details
Bixby scientists developed new MaxYield™ technology (patent pending) that drives air into the burn pot as a powerful vortex to increase oxygen supply and achieve an amazing 99.7% combustion efficiency. The result: a reduction in fuel cost of up to 70%.
The Bixby Biomass System now brings MaxYield™ to the home. For superior biomass technology and a better-engineered, better-built stove, count on the biomass leader. Count on Bixby.
- Maximum burn efficiency for lower fuel costs
- Starts with just the push of a button
- Easy heat output adjustment from 8,000 to 50,000 BTUs
- Large fuel hopper holds almost two bushels for less filling
- Reliable fuel-feeding system design prevents jams
- Self-cleaning burn pot automatically removes ash
For the MaxFire
Installation: Install in accordance with manufacturer's instructions
Heating Area: Heating area will vary depending upon floor plan, heat loss and geographic location of home, stove venting configuration and climate
Shipping Weight: 350 lbs.
Electrical: 120 volt AC (all loads shown are combined) -Normal Operating Mode: 1.6 Amps -Ash Dump: 4.6 Amps -Igition Mode: 8 Amps
Tested and Listed By: OMNI-Test Laboratories Inc.
Tested To: ASTM E 1509, ULC C1482
Dimensions: height: 33" width: 28" depth: 30"
Fuel Hopper Capacity: 106 lb corn (1.9 bushel)
Deluxe Trim Options: Nickel Plated or 24k Gold Plated (Doors & Vents)
Heat Output: Up to 50,000 BTU/h
Click on thumbnail at right for the text of the full warranty as stated on the Company web site. In brief, it covers electrical and mechanical defects for 4 years, while the frame and craftmanship are covered for an additional 3 years. The warranty is not valid until it has been registered with Bixby Energy by sending in the warranty card within 30 days from time of purchase. Note that some stoves were sold heavily discounted with only a 1 y warranty or even none at all by resellers. The warranty page in the Owners' Manual will tell you what is and what is not a warranty item and what is the responsibility of the owner.
For technical support, your first point of contact is the dealer from whom you purchased the warrantied stove. Bixby also offers free over-the-phone technical support to holders of valid warranties. If you leave a message, Bixby will call you back. Priority, of course, goes to dealers. If you do not answer when they return your call during busy periods, your ticket may be closed and you'd need to re-initiate your inquiry. Therefore, you are best to leave them a cell phone number and to keep it on and with you until they call. (Maybe even sleep with it!) One final word: when you do call, be nice. As in any manufacturing business, the poor frazzled tech support worker is likely not personally responsible for whatever ails you or your stove. No matter how frustrated you are, be pleasant, and a little bit patient, and you'll be rewarded with the same courtesy.
Having trouble with a US dealer not honouring the Bixby warranty stated or implied? See Magnuson-Moss US Federal Act http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson-Moss_Warranty_Act . See also http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=120758 .
Bixby Official Manufacturer's Statement
Bixby Energy Systems manufactures the Bixby Maxfire and Ugly Black Box (“UBB”) heating stoves that qualify for a tax credit in the US under the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009. A printout of the Bixby Official Manufacturer's Statement at http://www.bixbyenergy.com/Certificate.pdf is required to facilitate tax credits under this Act.
In Canada, Jammer advises that the purchase of a biomass stove such as the Bixby qualifies for a Home Renovation tax rebate as announced in the January 2009 federal budget.
Model & Serial Numbers
Courtesy of Quark:
Model 100 S/N:<3000; Model 110 S/N:3000 to 3852; Model 115 S/N:3853 to 9674; UBB S/N:2000 to (2999)
Detailed list of part numbers for all model stoves, courtesy of Quark: http://www.scribd.com/doc/13176940/Bixby-Service-Part-Kits
The Bixby MaxFire is a thoroughly computer controlled stove. The computer program can be reprogrammed for future upgrades. Bixby regularly posts firmware upgrades and Beta-test versions on the [Bixby Download Webpage]. In addition, almost all the operating parameters of the stove are adjustable through Bixcheck software which can also be downloaded free of charge from the Bixby website. The stove uses a “Motherboard” / “Daughterboard” combination. The Motherboard controls all of the stove's functions with exception for the igniters. The Igniters are controlled by the Daughterboard (also called igniter board). Putting the Igniter circuitry on the Daughterboard keeps the high amperage circuits off of the Motherboard and allows the Motherboard to be protected by a small amperage fuse. Each Igniter is also protected by its' own fuse. The Motherboard controls the stove in four running modes. a) Start-up mode b) Normal running mode c) Ash Dump mode d) Shutdown mode.
The approximate time breakdowns of the four operational modes are: a) Start-up mode 17 Minutes b) Normal Run mode Indefinite c) Ash Dump mode 1 Minute d) Shutdown mode 30 Minutes
Maxfire Model 100 - 115
Motherboard Pinout (115/110): File:Bixby110&115 Motherboard.pdf
Supplementary Pinout for Motherboard J3 for computer cable.
Bixby procedure for replacing the Maxfire motherboard: http://www.scribd.com/doc/7635914/Replacing-the-Main-Control-BoardMaxFire
Bixby procedure for replacing the daughter board: http://www.scribd.com/doc/3349970/Replacing-the-Igniter-Board
UBB and Maxfire Model 120
Image taken from Maxfire/UBB Service Manual at http://www.scribd.com/doc/3155803/Bixby-MaxFire-and-UBB-Service-Manual. Click on the image to enlarge it. See the Service Manual for additional details.
Bixby procedure for replacing the circuit board of the UBB: http://www.scribd.com/doc/3349984/Replacing-the-Printed-Circuit-Board-UBB
Motherboard failed? This is rare. If yours failed, you could have an electrical problem in your home. See BixbyFAQ#Miscellaneous_Problems .
The Motherboard uses 8 sensors to control the various stove functions:
1. A Magnetic Sensor below Feeder Wheel senses 4 magnets that are pressed into the Feeder Wheel as the Feeder Wheel rotates. The stove will reposition the Feeder Wheel so each hole will align in the correct position at the proper time. FAQs on Bixby Feeder Wheel
2. The Exhaust Fan Tachometer gives the stove’s computer feedback as to the actual speed of the fan. The sensor provides a modulated resistance signal in the order of ~1000 Ohm as the fan turns. The signal drops whenever metal is in proximity to the magnetic tip of the sensor. The signal is used to determine if the Exhaust Fan is working correctly. The Exhaust Fan uses this input to run an exact speed. FAQs on Bixby Exhaust Fan
3. The Ash Drawer Switch is on the back wall of the ash drawer compartment. It tells the stove if the Ash Drawer is in the closed position or not. If the Ash Drawer is not in the closed position, it will cause a warning (#5 light blinking) and the stove will not do an ash dump. Eventually fuel will build up in the Burn Pot if the Ash Drawer is not replaced or closed properly. After 20 minutes the stove will shut down with a #5&7 error to prevent a build up of unburnt fuel.
4. The Door Switch tells the stove if the door is closed or open. If the door is open, it will cause an error (#4 light blinking) and will shutdown in one minute.
5. The Exhaust Thermocouple is an unshielded Type K thermocouple wire used to measure the relative temperature of the exhaust. The Thermocouple (TC) is also used to adjust the Convection Fan speed. If the temperature of the exhaust is getting too hot (losing efficiency), the Convection Fan will speed up to put more heat into the room. The increase in the Convection Fan speed will aid in lowering the exhaust temperature. If the exhaust temperature continues to rise to a critical temperature, then the stove will move itself to a lower heat level setting until the exhaust temperature has lowered. This action is called Temperature Pullback. If the temperature still does not come down, then the stove will shut down with a #3 light blinking. In addition to all this, the stove's firmware continually monitors the recent history of changes in the flue TC readings. It does this to detect faults such as onset of flue blockage. If it detects such a blockage (through a sustained trend of continually decreasing TC readings), the stove will shut down with a #2 and 3 light blinking. The later versions of the firmware (as of ~version 2.6) also monitor the history of TC readings to dynamically make corrections to the air/fuel ratio. It is called "lean burn" correction, the parameters of which are user-controlled via BixCheck software. Finally, the TC is also used by the stove's firmware to detect ignition (i.e., a heat rise) during startup mode of operation.
6. The Burn Drive Limit Switch gives indication to the stove's computer that the paddles are in the run position and the ash dump worked correctly. The switch is activated by a cam that is on the burn drive motor. FAQs on Troubleshooting Bixby Ash Dumping
7. The Hopper Snap Disc
is another safety device that senses the temperature of the bottom side of the Hopper. The #3 light will begin blinking if the Snap Disc has been activated and the stove will shutdown. The Snap Disc will automatically reset as the stove cools.
Bixby procedure for replacing the hopper snap disc: http://www.scribd.com/doc/3349966/Replacing-the-Hopper-Snap-Disc-115
8. The Igniter Current Sensing Coil checks both igniters for current draw before the stove starts up. If either of the igniters is bad, the stove will show an error code. To test an igniter, unplug it and check with an ohmmeter. The resistance of a good Igniter will be 22 to 28 ohms. FAQs on Bixby Igniters and Air Pump
Supplemental Performance Data (Unofficial)
Table of feed consumption, ashdump rate, BTU output and default calibration settings as a function of Bixby stove heat level setting operating under version 2.02 and 2.06 stove software. Click on thumbnail at left to enlarge. Warning: it is approximately 300 kByte.
Manuals and Guides
The following is just a sample of the manuals and guides available at Quark's Corner's Documents at http://www.scribd.com/people/documents/1077507
Owners Manual (115): File:Bixby 115 Owner's Manual.pdf
Owners Manual (110): File:Bixby 110 Owner's Manual.pdf
Owners Manual (100): File:Bixby 100 Manual.pdf
Owners Manual (UBB): File:Bixby UBB Owner's Manual.pdf
Service Manual (Maxfire and UBB): File:Bixby Service Manual.pdf
110 Troubleshooting & Adjustment Guide Portrait: http://www.scribd.com/doc/3153009/110-Trouble-shooting-and-Adjusting-Guide-Portrait
115 Troubleshooting & Adjustment Guide Portrait: http://www.scribd.com/doc/3153035/115-Trouble-shooting-and-Adjusting-Guide-Portrait
Thermal Images of the Bixby 115
Click on the thumbnail at right to see a collection of thermal images of the Bixby 115 stove, captured by Aircooledboy using a thermal imaging camera worth over $50,000; not a toy. The images show the front of the stove at different heat levels. They also show the insides of the stove taken from both the left and right sides. Also included are images of the outside pipe and cap. Note that the camera "sees" radiating heat surfaces and not moving hot air. For this reason, the hot air from the vents isn't represented in the images. Note also that the images were apparently taken without the optional childproof safety screen provided by Bixby to prevent burns from the window. Warning: the images are approximately 170 kbytes in total, but they're well worth the download, even over a slow dialup connection. To see these and more individual images in higher resolution and temperature information (how about a 351 degF door handle???), see http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=89728. Enjoy!
Scoops' stove, weekly cleaning: http://vimeo.com/2720094 (password= bixby)
Jawquin's stove, showing a good flame at Heat Level 4 burning a 50/50 mix of corn and pellets: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFSVLzRM-RA
CaptainCornBurner's user documentary: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arUEQ1q4sIk
Eric Hillard's (FreshSqueeze) user documentary: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZ8ZYLAkwOA
BiquesCheque's Model 110 Ashdump: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad0YEGRYjxk
SimmerDa's 13.5 minute documentary on pellet burning in a Maxfire: http://www.youtube.com/v/gsYO6rRZtLM&hl=en&fs=1 and a thread showing his continued enthusiasm after 3 years of burning: http://www.iburncorn.com/new-forum/2-welcome-mat/14031-are-you-on-on-the-fence-just-do-it-with-video
Mlegner1972's 6.5 minute video of the complete startup sequence: http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&feature=endscreen&v=hpT3r63s87Q
Air to Fuel Ratio
Two trim pots are provided on the Maxfire to optimize the burn by adjusting air/fuel ratio under varying external conditions. To gain access to the Trim Pots for the 115, remove the left side panel (when facing the stove). The Trim Pot on the right is the “Feed Rate Adjustment Knob.” The one on the left is the “Exhaust Fan Adjustment Knob.” Trim Pots both have a range of plus or minus 30% from the preset rate which is built into the software. [ Guidance on Making Trimpot Adjustments ]
Air/Fuel ratio adjustments in excess of 30% may be made using BixCheck software. This software also allows customization of other parameters such as ashdumping rate so that a wide range of solid fuels can be accommodated.
Update: With version 2.71 stove firmware, it is possible to use BixCheck software to optionally give the MaxFire ashdump control by trimpot, as with the UBB. In this mode, the Exhaust Fan trim pot will control the Lean/Rich ratio while the freed up fuel trim pot will control the ash dump rate.
Dual Fuel Settings
Adjacent to the trim pots, the stove features a fuel selection switch. This selects the programming for the fuel of choice. Setting A (open circuit) is defaulted to corn, and B defaults to wood pellets. The configurations can be tailored for any type of fuel using Bixcheck software.
According to Tomorokoshi "the action from that switch takes place live - you can switch while the stove is running. This lets you do things like have the same Fan and Feed settings, but have different convection fan set points, different startups, etc. with the flexibility to switch on while running. Another case is to have everything the same except for the ash tables, in case a fuel like wood pellets is wandering around for ash content. There is no need to shut down or anything."
The_Law reports that the fuel selection switch does not work well when the stove is operating the experimental 2.71 version of Bixcheck software. Specifically, the stove doesn't recognize changes to the switch setting unless the stove is already connected to a computer using Bixcheck. If this is an issue, then one can consider reverting to an earlier version software (e.g., 2.06).
Exhaust Air and Intake Air Routing
The combustion air enters the stove through the outer pipe on the Bixby direct vent piping directly into the Converter Box. The direct vent pipe is actually a pipe within a pipe, the outer pipe is 5 inches in diameter and the inner pipe is 3 inches in diameter. The Converter Box keeps fresh combustion air separate from the combustion exhaust allowing the Bixby stove to use a direct vent piping system. This box diverts the fresh combustion air to the 3” intake hose that routes into the Ash Drawer compartment. Here the combustion air is then routed to the air wash channel, up through the 109 holes in the Lower Paddle and into the chamber created between the Upper Burn Plate and the Lower Burn Plate. The air in this chamber is pulled in though the Upper Burn Pot vortex holes aiding the combustion process.
The fresh combustion air in the Burn Pot is used in the combustion process and becomes exhaust. The exhaust rises to the top of the Firebox, past the convection plates and tubes and then into the Exhaust Tube in the back of the Firebox. Thus, the convection plates cause the exhaust to travel up and over the length of the tubes then down the other side. This increases exposure of the hot exhaust to the tubes which helps to increase the efficiency of heat transfer.
The heat absorbed by the Convection Tubes is what heats the room air. The top rear of the Fire Box is open to the Heat Exchanger. Hot air, which rises, is pulled down into the Heat Exchanger towards the Exhaust Tube. This action allows the flow of the heated air time to provide excellent transfer of heat to the Convection Tubes.
The exhaust is pulled through the Exhaust Tube by the Exhaust Fan. The Exhaust Fan blows the exhaust into the Converter Box where it goes into the inner 3” pipe of the direct vent system. The natural draw from the hot exhaust air exiting the stove and the Exhaust Fan are what drives the air movement. The combustion air is drawn in by the Exhaust Fan pulling out the exhaust. This can be accomplished because the MaxFire is a completely sealed system. If air is pushed out of the stove, then it must come in through the intake pipe since the rest of the system is sealed. FAQs on gaskets for Bixby stoves
The Bixby stove is thus a negative pressure stove which is safer, by design, to operate than a positive pressure device. As explained by Tallcorn ( http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=8190 ): If the exhaust pipe or exhaust chambers plug up or the door glass or latch fails, combustion air stops flowing through the fire pot and the fire goes out. Positive pressure stoves blow combustion air into the burn pot. Exhaust passes through and leaves the stove pushed by the combustion fan and natural draft. A blocked exhaust or stove or door glass and door failure doesn't stop the positive pressure blowing air into the burn pot, keeping the fire going and exhaust goes out of the stove where it can.
Convection System - Moving Hot Air
The convection air system transfers the heat from the stove, into the room. Room air is brought in through a Standard sized 16x16x1 Disposable Fiberglass Air Filter on the back of the stove. The 275 CFM convection fan blows filtered air up through the aluminized Convection Tubes, which are heated by the exhaust gas. The air which exits from the upper louvers is heated as it passes through the Convection tubes. The small amount of heated air that exits from the lower louvers is air that has passed through the Convection Tubes and past the sides of the Fire Box.
Tip: You can use a longer disposable air filter if you wish. It need only be 16" wide. If it is significantly longer than 16", then you can rotate it 180 degrees (i.e., put the top half down) when the lower half gets dirty. This increases the life of your filter.
When the stove is plugged in, it goes through a P.O.S.T. checking all of the devices on the stove. The LEDs will light 1 to 8, flash a code, light 8 to 1 and flash a code.
The Bixby stove ignites itself when the ON button is pressed, without use of starting aids.
While not easy to ignite, corn does burn well if the balance of fuel and air is maintained properly. The Bixby MaxFire uses an Air Pump and two powerful 500 watt Igniters to ensure a fail safe ignition every time. The Air Pump is a dual diaphragm Oilless Linear Pump that feeds an equal amount of air to each Igniter. The Igniters use a 2500 degree F carbon coil to heat the air coming from the air pump to 1400 degrees F. This amount of heat results in the corn reaching its “flash point” within two to three minutes and igniting. There is no need for any starting aids other than the tip of the user’s finger pushing the “ON” button. FAQs on troubleshooting Bixby igniters and airpump
The Start-up mode runs for approximately 17 minutes from the time the “On” button is pressed. The stove will first do a Diagnostic Test of its operation and test all of the sensors. The stove will also run the ash dump mechanism 3 times and move the feeder wheel to a position where there is a magnet over the feeder wheel sensor. If there are any problems they will be displayed as blinking lights on the control panel. We will look at these dialogistic codes after we finish discussing all 4 running modes. After the Diagnostic Test, the stove will start feeding corn into the Firepot, after a minute the air pump will Start-up. 15 seconds after the air pump starts, then the stove will test both igniters. After the test is done, then both igniters will be engaged. There should be a flame in roughly 3½ minutes from the point of starting the stove. If the exhaust thermocouple detects no flame within 10 minutes, the stove will enter Shutdown Mode and try to restart. The stove will try to restart 2 times before it flashes the #2 light (did not reach operating temperature) and shuts down. When the stove lights normally, it will run at pre-set levels for the first 17 minutes. At the end of Start-up mode it will be on level 4, at which time, it will change to what ever level the user has set. The purpose of the Start-up procedure is to get the stove up to operating temperature and to stabilize the flame.
Note that the above timings and heat levels are default settings which can be changed using BixCheck Software.
The stove may also be ignited manually using a starting aid. The [Bixby User Manual] provides detailed instructions on how to do this. When starting manually, FreshSqueeze suggests temporarily increasing the exhaust fan rate to help reduce the possibility of blowback http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=112905 .
The detailed full-page manual start procedure is in the User Manual.
Courtesy of Freshsqueeze (http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=140118 )...
- Take a piece of paper towel and place some corn (or pellets) in the center.
- Then, put some starter gel over the corn/pellets, and fold the paper towel up like a pillow.
- Then, place the pillow in the bottom of the burn pot after pushing the on button and after the paddles have gone through the startup cycle.
- Then, when the air compressor kicks on remove the ash pan and ignite the "pillow" with the torch through the holes in the paddle. Then replace the ash drawer.
For other approaches to manual starting, see http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=12488 and also http://www.iburncorn.com/new-forum/8-general-corn-burning-questions/14207-denatured-alcohol#14229 .
|WARNING: It has been suggested that flammable solvents can be dangerous in an already hot stove. Starter gels are safer, but perhaps the safest and easiest method is to simply ignite a handful of pellets with a propane torch; ideally one with its own push button starter.|
Normal Run Mode
During the normal running operation of the stove, the stove will run at the user preset level. If a different heat setting is chosen, it will take three minutes per level to ramp up or down to the selected level. The two minute delay gives the stove time to adapt to the new feed and Exhaust Fan rates. Tomorokoshi explains (http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=135167), for example, that if the stove is set from a high heat level to a lower one, the fuel will burn up faster than normal until the stove cools down to the new level. This would make the flame lean and unstable. The ramp-down delay prevents this.
The feed rate and Exhaust Fan settings are modified by the Trim Pots. The Trim Pots can make changes plus or minus up to 30% in each direction. The stove will automatically do an ash dump after a preset amount of feed cycles. The higher the heat level setting, the shorter the time between ash dumps. Likewise, the lower the heat level setting, the longer the time between ash dumps. FAQs on Autostarting and Use of External Thermostat to Regulate Heat Level
Automatic Ash Dumping
The Bixby stoves automatically clean the burnpot by dumping ash at preset intervals governed by the count of feed wheel revolutions. The intervals are user-adjustable on the Maxfire using BixCheck software so that the stove can be configured to burn very low ash through to very high ash fuels. The UBB provides a trimpot for adjusting the ash dumping rate. Click on the link below to see a short video of the ash dumping process viewed from inside the ash drawer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad0YEGRYjxk
NOTE: A manual ashdump can be forced by pressing the ON button. This does not reset the ash counter (i.e., count of feedwheel revolutions since the previous dump).
Update: With version 2.71 stove firmware, it is possible to use BixCheck software to optionally give the MaxFire ashdump control by trimpot, as with the UBB. In this mode, the Exhaust Fan trim pot will control the Lean/Rich ratio while the freed up fuel trim pot will control the ash dump rate.
Sketch (at left) of 110/115/UBB Burner Assembly. In reality, the upper burn plate of the 115 Maxfire is not quite as shown. It is actually split into 2 pieces to make easier removal for routine cleaning. For additional details on the ash dump process: http://www.scribd.com/doc/3168679/Ash-Dump-Process
The model 100 uses a different dumping process. According to Howlinsounds http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=125287: "It has a deeper lower pot and when it is time to dump, the upper arm activates over top of the burn, fills with "new" fuel, that new fuel ignites, the lower arm dumps, then closes, then the upper arm opens and drops the new burn to the bottom plate." To this, Tomorokoshi adds: "The Model 100 has two motors that run the plates separately. Burning normally happens on the lower plate. When it gets to be ash dump time, the upper plate moves over. This makes an "enclosed" area - although both plates have the little holes in them. The burn in the enclosed area ignites the fuel that is now dropping on the upper plate. Once the fire is going up there the lower plate drops out everything, closes up again, and then the upper plate moves out of the way, dropping the new fuel ignition down. This method actually has some interesting properties, at the expense of efficiency. Some amount of unburned fuel gets into the ash drawer. It does a cycle about every 45 minutes at level 8, and the clinkers are about 3/16" thick."
The Shutdown Mode is entered when the “Off” button is pressed or an error is found by the mother board. The stove will stop feeding corn and will increase the Exhaust Fan speed to keep all of the combustion exhaust going out the exhaust pipe. The stove will run at this speed for 10 minutes to allow time for all of the fuel to burn. After this 10 minute period, the Exhaust Fan will run at 50% and Convection Fan will decrease in speed for 20 minutes more. At the end of this 30 minute period, the stove will do an Ash Dump and completely shutdown.
Error & Warning Codes
The 8 heat level indicator lights on the Bixby Room heater (e.g., model 115) are also designed to act as potential problem indicators. Whenever one of these lights begins to flash, consult the Bixby manual for reason and recommended solution. Additional information is available below.
Power failure during Room Heater operation: Push the “Off” button and then the “On” button to restart.
From Tomorokoshi http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5430: "When you get the 1237 light combination, does the stove turn the air compressor on? The 1237 code is listed as an "internal fault", which is that the igniter current was detected at a time when they are supposed to be off. The stove then assumes that something went wrong with the igniter circuit and turns the air pump on. However, if the stove is running for some time and then it happens, there might be something else. Can you look into: 1) Is there a pattern to the shutdown problems? How often they occur, etc. 2) What kind of electrical circuit is the stove plugged into? 3) What operation is the stove doing when it happens?"
EtOH reported problems with random 1237 shutdowns ( http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5430&start=28 ) with the compressor remaining on after the shutdowns until the stove was powered off. The problem was corrected with a new igniter board (http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=92969) with thanks to Tomorokoshi at Bixby for prompt and accurate troubleshooting.
From Blume98 http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=144219: "There was a problem with some (igniter) boards. We replace them under warranty a lot of time. There are a couple of resisters (R16, R18) that were soldered too close to board causing the tryads to come on without air pump."
See Lights #7&1, below.
Operating temperature not reached: Push the “Off” button and then the “On” button to restart. Verify fuel level in the hopper. According to Tomorokoshi http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=10672, this error occurs when the nominal flue thermocouple reading drops into the 50s or 60s, depending upon the board temperature.
From JET http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5663&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0: "Was it just a small white plug in the upper right hand corner? If so, that shouldn't snap into place. It doesn't connect positively and can come off." (i.e., Ensure that flue thermocouple wire (white plug, brownish wire) is plugged in place at the upper right of the board, it can come off easily.)
Empty hopper or potential blocked flue warning. Check hopper for fuel. If fuel is present, flue (exhaust) may be blocked. Clean the exhaust portion of the Room Heater and the attached venting. See Maintenace and Cleaning Procedures for details. If problem continues, contact your Bixby Dealer.
From Corny http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5157 : "A failure with the 2&3 lights blinking usually indicates that you were running too lean if the flue isn't blocked and the hopper isn't empty. Solution would be to turn up the feed rate or back off the exhaust fan rate. If your pellets are very long, it could be that the feed wheel pockets aren't filling completely and you aren't getting the proper amount of fuel, hence too lean. If this is the case, smaller pellets would help. If the 2&3 lights are blinking (with the new 2.06 or later firmware) but the stove is still running, then that indicates that the stove is trying to compensate for a too-lean condition by increasing the feedrate. Thus, there are fewer shutdowns for this condition when running the new firmware. " A 2&3 shutdown can also occur when running too rich as the flame is snuffed from an overfilling burnpot. See Bixby Adjustment for details and advice on optimizing the setting of the air and fuel trim pots.
If the exhaust fan speed was irregular before the 2&3 shutdown, you could have a loose flue thermocouple connection at J18 on the top half of the motherboard, as explained at http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=9976 . If the stove shut itself down because of this, the Bixcheck Flue Monitor would likely show a sudden zero thermocouple reading as the connection is broken at J18.
This appears to be an obscure code [discovered by ssgerken]. This pargraph will be updated as more becomes known on the code.
From Tomorokoshi http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5312 :"Check the ash drawer switch. Where does it close relative to the drawer position and the latch closure? It might be on the edge. Usually this would lead to a #5 only, but if the drawer is actually open, because the air flow changes a bit, it could lead to a cold shutdown before the ash drawer timeout. Likewise, the exhaust fan speed is increased a bit if the drawer is open, but if the drawer is actually not open, then the fire could be blown out. Another possibility is if it shut down with a regular #2, after which someone left the drawer out for around 20 minutes - it would then capture that error as well."
See Lights #7&2, below.
Exhaust system or hopper area is overheating. Reduce the feedrate (see troubleshooting section of Bixby manual). If problem persists, contact your Bixby dealer.
From Tomorokoshi http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5663: "The #3 light is used to indicate an extreme overtemp. How this is done, however, can lead to a misleading indication. The idea behind an overtemp is that too much fuel is being loaded into the stove. Perhaps the feed motor is stuck on. This method to deal with this is to have a thermal snap switch (aka. Hopper Snap Disc) in series with the feed motor. If the temperature is reached, the switch open up, and power to the motor is turned off. However, this is only half the process. Somehow the computer need to know that the circuit opened up. To do this, there is a detection circuit on the control board. It effectively measures if the feed motor is using current when voltage is applied: if no current is used when it is expected to be on, then the circuit is open, and the #3 overtemp shutdown process happens. Note that there are now any number of things that could cause this: an actual overtemp, a malfunctioning snap switch, the internal feed motor thermal cutout, a motor that uses less power than expected, a system voltage reduction, a general wire disconnect... or a fault in the detection circuit. If you look carefully on the control board, behind the metal tab that holds the trim pots is the main processor. It is the large chip on the board. To the right of it, just below the metal crystal can, are four components. The third one down from the can is R36; it's designation is upside-down relative to your view. That R36 resistor sets the sensitivity of the detection circuit. It's original value was 100 K Ohms, which has a color coding of Brown-Black-Yellow-Gold. After tracking down issues like this, it was changed to 10 K, which has a color coding of Brown-Black-Orange-Gold. When the change was made, boards with the 100 K resistor has a 12 K resistor soldered on top which made the total resistance close to 10 K. If you do not have the second resistor soldered on, look at the color bands. It can be difficult to tell the difference between the colors. If you have an ohmmeter you can measure the value if the stove is unplugged. If you determine that you have the 100 K resistor, a board exchange will take care of the problem. You will also automatically get the new software."
From JET http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5663: "Another likely cause is a bad thermal snap switch (aka. Hopper Snap Disc). This is located just to the left and above the feeder wheel motor, behind the left side panel. There will be 2 small black wires with pink connectors on them. If you have an ohmmeter, then you can check to see if the snap disk is open, it should be closed. If you don't have one, then you can put a jumper on the brown wires that go to the snap disk and try the stove again to see if it is fixed."
From http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=80082, Tomorokoshi reminds us that "the convection fan shutting down (can) trigger this problem. A noticeable radiant heat from the stove, unusual quietness, and unusual "hot" smell are all symptoms of the convection fan shutting down. If it shuts down, then the hopper overtemp switch can open up.". <Troubleshooting the convection fan>
In the same thread, DLS mentions that a dirty air filter (or an excessively dense filter) could also cause an overheat shutdown. Replace with a new economy filter; these are less dense and work best. Rona advises that accumulation of soot behind the convection tubes can also cause overheating. The solution in this case is a good cleaning.
A high sustained (flue) thermocouple reading (of approx 250) can also cause a #3 shutdown if the high temperature pullback feature fails to lower the thermocouple reading as explained here.
Lights #3 & 4 , or Lights #3 & 5
From Tomorokoshi http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5312: "A #3 light all by itself means the stove was operating too hot and opened the snap switch on the exhaust manifold. This cuts power to the feed motor. This is detected when the feed motor is attempted to be run, which makes the error show up. However, there is another way to detect the stove running too hot - via the thermocouple in the exhaust. The test and safety specification the stove complies to limits how high the exhaust gas can be. If the stove approaches this temperature, it will try to do the high temperature pull back mode. If the stove is not able to pull back in time, which is about 5 minutes, it will display the #3 and #5 lights. This was done so I could answer exactly this kind of question - instead of chasing around a #3, which is really hard to do. By the way, a #3, #4 is the same issue except during startup mode. There are a few things you can do: 1) Is the stove in a warm room? Ambient temperatures in the +80 F range can be trouble some. Use a fan to get the heat out of the room. 2) Wait for cooler temperatures before going as high as level 8. 3) Check the fuel fill of the burn pot - if it is high, the pullback mode will not be able to do anything if there is a large charge of fuel. 4) Watch the stove - there is only a short window to catch it. When it is in pullback mode the LEDs should flash like they do if the thermostat is telling it to be cool. 5) Attach a thermostat to keep the ambient temperature in the room a little cooler. Once it gets cool outside, it should stop happening."
Room Heater door is ajar (open). If the door is perceived to be open for more than one minute, the Room Heater will shut down.
Make sure the door is tightly closed. If necessary, adjust the door latch by tightening the 2 doorlatch nuts (visible when the door is opened). If the door is tight, then LET reminds us that "the door switch can also be adjusted. I've had to adjust several from the factory with 'hair triggers'!"
There have been isolated reports of the #4 light going dim or out when it should be on. Enerjet once corrected this problem by unplugging the stove for a few minutes then plugging it back in. http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=8722
Ash Drawer is ajar (open): Make sure the ash drawer is tightly closed. The Room Heater will not start if the ash drawer is not closed. If the ash drawer is open for more than 20 minutes, the Room Heater will shut down. Close ash drawer and restart the Room Heater.
Mimadman http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=7254 suggests that a stuck ash drawer switch would cause the #5 light to stay on. To free it, he says to spray WD40 lubricant on the switch, then work the switch with one's finger until free. [Bixby procedure for replacing the ash drawer switch]
From Blume98 on adjusting the switch http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=7254: "Take ash pan out and look in. You will see the switch (at the back, left of centre). It has a nut on each side. Loosen the nut you see, then back off the nut behind ash dump motor a few turns, then tighten nut in ash pan compartment. This will bring it out a little. The light should go out when you put drawer back in."
The ash drawer has been open for more than 20 minutes. Close the ash drawer then restart the stove.
Exhaust fan failure. Contact your Bixby Dealer for service.
From Quark in the case of a #6 error when the exhaust fan still runs http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=110078 : "..Then it is either in the exhaust fan sensor or a mechanical failure. Since the exhaust fan sensor is positioned between the exhaust fan and the motor that drives the fan, it doesn't care if there is an unbalanced or dirty exhaust fan.
If one has Bixcheck software , connect to the stove, open the Monitor and look to see if there is any reading at all. If there is a RPM reading but it does not somewhat match the set RPM, the problem could be mechanical. The sensor is mounted over the cooling fan on the motor shaft enclosed in the cage that connects the exhaust fan and the motor. Check the cooling fan blade to make sure it turns wih the shaft.
1) The fan hub set screw may have loosened. 2) The fan itself my have loosened on the hub. 3) The fan may have shifted on the shaft. 4) The sensor itself may have loosened and shifted. 5) The cooling fan blades themselfs, need to be inline with each other. Not bent out of position.
The software expects to see 10 blades of the cooling fan for each revolution of the motor. If one blade is moved out of the sensors range, it wiil not count that blade thus the motor will run faster. A similiar condition can exist if the cooling fan blade becomes loose on the shaft.
If the Bixcheck Monitor does not see a RPM but shows a set RPM, look a for loose connection to the main control board, and if it is tight and in place, replace the exhaust fan sensor.
In this situation, because the stove has been unplugged several times - do the following. First replace the receptacle. Receptacles do wear out. A receptacle should have some amount of friction as the plug goes in or out. A $5.00 receptacle will last a lot longer and give a better contact between the receptacle and the plug than a $0.50 one will.
One other thing to try mixed in with all of this - The voltage spike caused by the plug being kicked out may have scrambled the program somewhat. There is a big difference between a spike caused by normally unplugging something vs a rapid unplugging. Try downloading the program again, it only takes a few minutes. Just a suggestion."
In the same thread, Jammer mentioned that a bad [exhaust fan] bearing can cause vibrations affecting sensor readings causing a #6 error.
Firepot mechanical malfunction: Push the "off" button then the "on" button to restart. If malfunction continues, allow burnpot to cool then clear the jam. See Bixby FAQ section of this WIKI for tips on clearing jam. http://forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/BixbyFAQ#Burn_Paddles_-_How_to_Clear_a_Jam
From the Troubleshooting section of superceded BixCheck manual: The burn paddles get stuck and a #7 error is produced – clinker looks normal except for perhaps being too tall Explanation: The ash content adjustment of the fuel parameters determines how often the ash dump is performed. With corn, the default factory setting is 32 (Note: It's since defaulted to 14 on the 2.06 version software). If this (32) were changed to 16, the stove would run for twice as long before performing the ash dump . This would allow the clinker to become too big, and it would jam the burn paddle mechanism. Remedy: Reduce the ash content of the selected fuel. By judging the size of the clinker that jammed the mechanism, adjust the ash content proportionally.
The burn paddles get stuck and a #7 error is produced – clinker is warped, folded, has marbled appearance Explanation: The material in the clinker is soft and somewhat sticky above some temperature. If the stove is operating such that the clinker is too hot when the ash dump process occurs, then as the paddles move in the clinker material, which initially is sticking to the paddles, gets moved and folded over while at the same time the relatively cool paddle freezes the clinker into a shape that may interfere with the paddle being able to fully extend and retract. Remedy: At this time, run the stove cooler by reducing the exhaust fan speed or by increasing the fuel amount. Reduce the Ash dump Fan setting for that fuel by perhaps 20% to 30%.
Unexplained operation Explanation: This stove is rather more complex than what would normally be expected for something that just burns stuff. However, when you look at it, if you are used to burning wood, a typical wood fire in a fireplace insert requires interaction every hour to keep things working well. There is a fair amount of software and calibration information that need to be correct to have the stove run well. With most stove operational issues, the first thing is to connect up the monitor and see what the calibration information is at. Improper calibration would primarily cause combustion problems. It is also going to be the case that as time goes by, new software will become available for the stove that may solve software problems as they are found. Remedy: Connect to the stove using BixCheck. Verify the calibration. Consider updating the stove to newer software.
From Blume98 when no jam is apparent http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=6606 : Try shutting off the stove then unplugging for a few minutes, then start up again. If the problem repeats, check to see if the ash dump motor is running when you hit the start button. If the motor runs and the arm doesn't move, then the gear or shaft is broken. If that's not the problem, remove the arm from the motor and see if you can turn the shaft. If it can turn readily, then the motor is bad.
From LET in the above thread: "The switch that the arm on the motor hits to stop it could be missadjusted, I have seen a couple of them come loose and move back. The other thing is if the brake on the bottom of the motor is stuck off then the motor will coast past that switch and give the error."
Left igniter failed. Contact your Bixby Dealer for service. The Room Heater will continue to operate, but will take longer to ignite from a cold start.
Note from Corny: Check the Left Igniter fuse and white connector on the sister panel. See also the related #7&2 code.
According to Scoops http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=9976 , a 7&1 error code can be cleared by an ashdump or by opening & closing the ash drawer.
Right igniter failed. Contact your Bixby Dealer for service. The Room Heater will continue to operate, but will take longer to ignite from a cold start.
Note from Corny: Check the Right Igniter fuse and white connector on the daughter board.
Note (from LET) http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5527 : The 2 & 7 lights can be confusing sometimes, the indication that you really had is #7 (jammed dump mech) and #2 low temp, because the lights flash together at the same rate it looked like the igniter was out. To prevent another jam turn up your feed about 1/2 mark and try that if it still does it go up another 1/2 mark on the feed. When the stove runs too lean then the cookie will be too hard and sometimes jambs the mech.
Note from Oldschool http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5335: "I shut the stove down and killed the power. I checked the fuses they were OK. I also checked all the wire connections, I did find a short black jumper wire on the igniter board that seemed loose and when I pulled on the wire it came out of the terminal. I crimped a new terminal on the wire and placed it back on the board. I started the stove back up when the air pump started I pulled the tubing and the pump was supplying air as it should. The igniters worked as they should and the stove started great. No error light on. So maybe the 10 min power kill or fixing the loose wire fixed the problem."
From Rona http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=101648: Switch the left and right igniter wires on the daughter board. If you then get a #7 & 1 code, then you can suspect the right igniter. If the code remains #7 & 2 as in Rona's case, you know that your igniters are good and that you can suspect the daughter board (EDIT: or some other cause. See the report from Bix user, below).
Bix user ( http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=104278 ) repaired a sporatic #7 & #2 problem by adjusting his drive limit microswitch. He explained that random inappropriate closings of the switch caused the cutter arm to engage and to stop at inappropriate times and places (#7 error) causing poor burns that failed to reach temperature (#2 error).
Belenus suggests that the airpump and air tubes should be suspected when igniters blow frequently on a stove http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=9326 . The tubes might be pinched or partially blocked, or the pump might not be pumping effectively. He says "Without an flow/pressure meter and pump specs, it ain't easy (to test the pump). See how long it takes to inflate a basket ball, balloon, or some such thing to a given diameter (perimeter), then compare it with a pump at your dealers. For the tubes, you can blow through them by mouth to get a judgement. If you feel equal resistance from both tubes, they are both likely to be free of restrictions."
If one or more igniters is blown, and if you are using version 2.02 or earlier software, then auto ashdumping will be prevented.
Both igniters failed. See Manual Lighting instructions in the Bixby manual.
Note from Corny: Check the Igniter fuses and white connectors on the daughter board.
Internal error - possible ignitor electrical fault - unplug Room Heater and contact your Bixby Dealer for service. See Light 1,2,3&7
Feeder wheel failure. Open hopper lid, remove feeder wheel cover, clear jam and restart Room Heater. If this continues, contact your Bixby dealer for service. [ Feeder wheel troubleshooting ]
From Tomorokoshi http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5115 re. #8 light during startup while the corn is feeding correctly: "In the previous software (before 2.06), the system would shut down with a #8 light after 7 or 8 moves without finding the magnet. You were therefore alerted after the failure of the system. In 2.06, the light starts to blink after the magnet was missed for something like 2 or 3 times. This gives you a 5 or 6 move time opportunity to clear a jam manually before the system shuts down; it's very little warning, but it can give you notice if the system is regularly shutting down with a #8 light. The really bedeviling situations are when it shuts down with a #8 and there is nothing there - it can happen when merely the act of removing the cover lets the material fall away. .... All right, Rox, I forgot about the Startup case, so you can get the credit for that one. When the igniters are turned on and the current is checked, there are a lot of other things happening and the part of that involves various timers and status variables being reset. This leads to a false indication at that time - it's nothing to worry about."
From Enerjet in response to Darkharbour, whose feeder wheel consistently stopped with a #8 code approx. 4 minutes after hitting the ON button http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=8776 : "Did you look at the (feeder wheel) sensor just as an observation, looseness, wiring. Did you check the 4 small magnets that are pressed into the bottom of the feed wheel? I would clean the holes with a toothpick and look. Possibly the press fit was loose and when you cleaned the feed wheel one of the magnets may have fallen out. This would cause a loss of feed wheel position 1 out of every 4th cycle. That may be the reason for the delayed malfunction, as the system doesn't set the code on the first few intermittent losses of feed wheel position."
Additional guidance from Tomorokoshi on the problem of erratic and/or intermittent feederwheel: "1) Feed wheel hub is loose. Look into the tightness of the shaft screws. 2) Feed wheel motor gearbox is worn out. If that's the case... it should completely fail soon. 3) The motor is actually operating properly, but it's getting stuck with fuel under the wheel or by debris in the fuel. 4)The motor is actually operating properly, but the check circuit is falsely reporting a failure."
All lights flashing, up to your selected heat level
If your stove is connected to a thermostat, the flashing lights are normal and they indicate that the thermostat is not calling for heat.
If your stove is not connected to a thermostat and if the stove is not on heat level 8 in overtemperature pullback mode (see All 8 lights flashing, below), there are two things to look at according to Tomorokoshi: http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=6189: "a) On the bracket for the control board assembly there is a terminal block. Installed on the terminal block is a metal jumper. Check the connections there. b) Coming off the terminal block is a white wire that connects to J6 of the control board. Check the connection and make sure it's plugged in."
See also Bixby#All_8_lights_flashing on over-temperature pullback.
All 8 lights flashing
1) If heat level is set to 8 and stove is running on a thermostat, then it could be that the thermostat is not calling for heat and the stove is consequently going into idle mode (heat level 1) until the thermostat again calls for heat. 2) The 8 lights also flash in cases when the flue thermocouple exceeds a nominal value of 250. This indicates that the stove is in overtemperature pullback mode; i.e., it is ramping the temperature down as a safety precaution because the high temperature threshold of 250 nominal thermocouple units has been exceeded. The stove will shut down after 5 minutes if the thermocouple reading does not return to an acceptable value (below 250?) within 5 minutes.
From Ashdump ( http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=111634 ) re. overtemperature shutdown in the event that the overtemperature pullback operation fails to lower the flue thermocouple reading sufficiently below 250 nominal units within 5 minutes: "I usually run into this problem when my stove is dirty because more heat escapes through the exhaust which passes past the TC giving it a higher reading. I would clean out the stove again and see if it happens."
The power light on the power board (visible by removing the left side panel, when facing the stove) flashes when the stove is adjusting heat level in preparation for an ash dump. This applies to stoves running 2.06 version software or later. See the following thread for tips on access through the side panels http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=2158&highlight=magnet+side+panel .