1. Press the off button on the touch pad and allow the stove to shutdown. Open the door and remove the hairpin that connects the agitator and the drive input. Then unplug the appliance.
2. Remove the control board side panel by removing the self tapping screws (2 on top and 2 on the backside). Remove the panel being careful with the control board harness. Then, remove the 2 spade terminals from the upper snap disk and the 2 spade terminals from the agitator motor. With the same socket you removed the side panel with, remove the 2 self tapping screws that attach the crossbar that keeps the agitator motor in place and remove the crossbar. Then remove the agitator motor by pulling straight out.
3. Secure the motor gearbox assembly in a vise, clamping lightly on the black motor laminations with the output (agitator shaft) pointing up. The diecast aluminum gearbox housing will be completely in the open, above the motor. Don't clamp it too tight, just enough to secure it.
4. Take a small punch and drive the roll pin from the shaft coupler, remove the coupler and set aside the pin and the coupler.
5. Take a Torx bit and remove the 6 black colored self tapping screws visible in each corner and in the middle and set aside.
6. Carefully separate the upper half of the case from the lower half, pulling upward while wiggling it. Keep your thumb on the output shaft end and apply a little pressure to keep the gear set in the lower case. When the upper case comes free, there will be a loose flat washer and 2 small lengths of colored plastic spacers. The spacers go on each axle near the motor end of the gearbox (they only fit on their respective axles) and the flat washer is the thrust washer for the output shaft.
All your grease will be in the lower end of the housing. There is no need to remove the gear sets, just remove as much of the old stuff as possible from the case and the half you removed.
7. You will need a 1/4"x28 Zerk (Alemite) right angle fitting, a 1/4"x28 tap, a No.3 drill and a No.60 drill.
8. Take the No.3 drill and drill a hole in the case that is attached to the motor (the one you have in the vise), about 1/2' from the bottom and tap it 1/4"x28. Carefully remove any chips that may have got on the inside of the case half. When I reference the hole, I mean drill and tap a hole 1/2" from the bottom edge of the case half you have held in the vise and 1/2" from the bottom on the vertical side of the case half.
9. Thread the Zerk fitting in the threaded hole and tighten with the end pointing down.
10. Take the other case half and at the top (the top is above the output shaft hole), drill a hole with the No.60 drill for grease relief.
11. Re-assemble the case halves. Put a smear of grease on the output shaft before you slide the case halves together. Re-install the 6 self tapping Torx screws, attach the coupler and drive in the roll pin. Remove the assembly from the vise and fill the case with grease until it comes out the relief hole. Wipe off the excess grease and reinstall the gearbox motor assembly in reverse order. I put a little extra grease on the coupler where it rides in the bronze bush in the stove wall.
Every spring when you shut the unit sown and clean it, just give the Zerk a few strokes of the grease gun until clean grease appears from the weep hole and wipe the excess off. I used synthetic high temperature grease, but I suspect any good quality bearing grease will do nicely.
The auger gearbox assembly is the same so you can apply the same method to lubricate it as well. However, the auger isn't subjected to the heat factor like the agitator gearbox is, so lubrication should not be a concern.
Driving out the pin.
Opening the case. Hold your finger on the shaft when opening the case to keep the gears in place.
Grease coming out the weep hole
Motor reinstalled in stove